We currently do not have plans to publish our case designs. The files are meant to be used on specialized, non-consumer, molding machines and are therefor of very little use for the general audience. The data of the slim cases can’t be used unless you want to make a set of three double-shot moulds, and spend 60k and about 4 months of your live.
We are currently working on a simpler case design for consumer use, adaptation and modification. These files will be released under a permissive license.
Sad to hear that. I have to admit, also on my prints the camera switch (as well as the on/off switch) isn’t positioned perfectly - but I always got it to work so I didn’t bother changing something. I gotta move it to a better position sometime. Thanks for the feedback.
The gap should be minimal to non existend so I guess something else might be wrong.
Would you mind sharing a picture of the case? How was it printed (FDM, SLA, …) and what kind of material was used? You’ve written, you received it per post - so you didn’t print it yourself? I hope you haven’t spent too much money on it.
The camera-button should work better now and some minor details have changed as well. And I now have two versions available: blank and with some sort of a logo (both made with laywood-flex; finally got this material to print with good-enough layer adhesion).
Is it actually legal to publish a design with the original fairphone-logo on the backside of the cover?
it’s nice that you uploaded a free design for everyone to print.
I asked a friend of mine who owns a 3D-printer if he could print this.
He told me that it needs to be printed while standing upright and that he doesn’t know how to do that without having it possibly falling over during the process. Any tips on that?
There are no special measures needed to print it in the recommended position. It won’t fall over if your friend’s printer is calibrated right and has no 1st layer adhesion problems.
However, using a so-called brim (~5 lines) should totally eliminate the risk of falling over. But he should definitely use a soft material to prevent destroying the phone and some part-cooler for the last few layers (where the hook starts). But I think these things are pretty intuitive if he knows how to use his printer.
Heh. Sure, could totally be possible.
Will nudge my colleague tomorrow to print me the first test of the 3D case I base it on, to check it out and make manual Dremel action adjustments to it, before designing and printing a modified version.
Told a colleague to print the 3D casing available at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1806407 for me.
He printed it with PLA and I can now definitly say to NOT use PLA for the case, it was nearly impossible to attach it to the phone, even with it being in 2 parts. Also, not sure if the printer was the fault or the model, but the case was a bit too small in length.
If you decide to use this 3D model yourself I recommend to print it in a more flexible material, like TPU/TPE or Nylon.
I’ll definitly look more into 3D printed cases soon, I quite like the way the Slim Case is built and I think could be recreated for 3D printing. But well, I still don’t have my own 3D printer, which sucks.
I allready have a spool TPU at home !!
In the github-page of keesj I have found an FreeCad-file of a case, which I imported into Fusion 360 I`m adding the holes/mountings for the physical buttons … Any idea what method would be the best for the buttons ?