Hello,
I had the same problem with the loose connector. After the third try (without using extra screwdriver) it was correctly connected and the rear camera was recognized. 
Greetings,
chb
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Can confirm I had same issue, and with what was it 12 screws with the Fairphone screwdriver that wasn’t fun. The iFixit screwdriver worked way better. So if you disassemble the smartphone and got such screwdriver, use that. It can screw/unscrew quicker.
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Thank you all for the answers and confirmation that you managed to fix this. I will try again later today (in better light conditions 
).
Love the FP community and this forum!
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Fixed! Yesterday I was afraid to lift up the metal cover, because I did not want to cause more problems, but it is quite easy and you know when the connector is in place again.
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I had several problems too:
- I was not able to reach the “step-by-step guide”. Clicking on the link I ended up in a failing password, changing it, and still not reaching the guide. So I decided to use the “Watch how-to video” only.
- I was not able to lift the connector from the Camera Module with my finger tip. I used a small flat screwdriver to put more force. Not sure if this is the best tool. I realize you need to be very gentle!
- I was not able to push the connector back on the Camera+ Module. After some time, I gave up and tried to put back the old Camera Module. But same problem. Switched back to the new Camera+ Module. Finally, I solved the misalignment by bending up the flat cable while pushing the connector down. For this bending, I used again my small flat screwdriver, from the right side. This may not be the best tool, but I succeeded.
- For the Top(+) Module, the connector gave no problems. But instructions how to pop out the module is missing in the movie. I succeeded with my flat screw driver. But I guess there are better ways.
Luckily, the phone and the two new modules worked! But the whole upgrade was not as easy as I expected.
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A very fragile connection indeed (I recognized the potential “danger” from an earlier struggle with the same kind of connector in a laptop). On installing the new module I simply screwed the module tight AFTER inserting the connector in the module. This way the connecting cable and module just fitted better and the tightening afterwards took care of the complete correct positioning of the module.
All in all very happy with this new Canon camera 
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Really? Did you check that? Are you just kidding because of the MP number or do they in fact use a Canon lens now? In the list of suppliers for the FP3 from August 2019 Canon is not listed; it’s O-Film and Holitech Technology for the cameras.
I guess they would advertise this, wouldn’t they?
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Unless they use the Canon logo without consent: that is printed on the module 
There is a Canon logo printed on the camera module? Where?
At the place were this
was expected I saw this:
Now it could be I was seeing something that was not there. But to verify I would need to take the phone apart and that is something I will not do atm (too busy right now). Maybe someone else has noticed it too. If not I will report back after I have checked.
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On my camera module it is:
CT302
38571
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I made a few photos (pictured: FP3 with old camera module) of the area concerned so people might be able to grasp better what we are talking about here.
What got (and should not have gotten) disconnected here is probably the invisible opposite end of the connector that you can see in the first photo marked by a thin lined triangle. That opposite end should be on the “underside” of the metal that bears the camera icon (just where the tiny mini triangle to the top right of the camera icon is).
On an FP3+, I also found that clicking the connector back onto/into the camera module didn’t work on the first try. I then pushed the (loose) camera module towards the upper end of the case (core module) and the connector clicked into it then.
Eventually, a tip I think can be repeated every now and then: To just test if a module works or works again after you screwed open the FP3 or FP3+, it usually suffices to firmly press together display and core module – you must hear the plastic clips clicking again though. If the plastic clips are properly reconnected, you will usually be able to boot and fully use the FP3 even without the 13 screws back in. However, if the test is successful, don’t forget to still screw the 13 screws back in.
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Hallo,
ich habe den Connector der Kamermodule mit dem Finger festgedrückt bevor ich beide Kamermodule in ihre Position geklickt habe. Das war mittels leichtem Druck sehr einfach machbar. Danach habe ich den Test mit nicht angeschraubten Display gemacht - alles lief problemlos.
Nun noch die vielen Schrauben reingedreht und happy 
Hello
I pressed the connector of the camera modules with my finger before i clicked both camera modules in their position. This was very easy to do with light pressure. After that i did the test with a non-screwed display - everything went smoothly.
Now the many screws screwed in and happy
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Also don’t forget this:
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(New to the Community Forum… hi!)
I recently installed both the FP3+ Top Module and Camera Module in my FP3, and can confirm much of the advice given in this thread.
1st, Have the proper tools. The screwdriver supplied with the FP3 is a PITA. In anticipation of some more major work on some other equipment, I got an Pro Tech Toolkit from iFixIt, https://eustore.ifixit.com/products/pro-tech-toolkit/145307 (whilst recommended, this post is NOT an ad for iFixIt!). The iFixIt screwdriver works much much better than Fairphone’s, the magnetic pad helps to prevent loosing screws, the Opening Picks helped to remove the Display Module, the “Spudger” worked great for removing the connectors, and the Reverse Tweezers came in handy when trying to free a recalcitrant screw. I wore latex gloves. Also, ensure you have a clean level properly-illuminated workspace.
2nd, Read/Watch the instructions all the way through BEFORE proceeding.
3rd, Remember to power the Fairphone OFF!
4th, Be Careful! Do NOT “force” anything. GENTLY unscrew, GENTLY pry, GENTLY lift, etc. Here’s where using an Opening Pick to pry the Display Module free helped, it was much easier (more gentle) than trying to do it by hand as FairPhone suggests.
5th, For both the Top Module and Camera Module, make sure to remove the protective blue covering over the lens on the new (FP3+) units.
6th, I had no problems at all replacing the Top Module.
7th, Like others in this thread, I had problems with the Camera Module, including accidentally loosening the hidden end of the cable. Unlike others, I’ve not been able to get the new (FP3+) Camera Module to work (more on this below), BUT the old (FP3) Camera Module can be reinstalled and works fine. (Huh?)
8th, You don’t need to completely reassemble the FP3 to test it. Just make sure the Display Module is firmly reattached. I found it useful to screw it down with five screws, the most important one being the one above the SIM/SD slots next to the battery well (this seems to ensure the Display Module is making a proper connection to the main unit). The other four screws are those in the four corners (one screw per corner).
9th, the *#*#66#*#* diagnostics are incredibly useful. They confirmed the new Top Module is working, but that (for me) the new Camera Module (including the flash LED) is not working (but that the old Camera Module, when reinserted, is still working).
Despite having the Camera Module cable problem mentioned by others, which I fixed by using the iFixIt “Spudger” (as I now recall), my new FP3+ module simply doesn’t work. The before-mentioned …66… diagnostics report an error (the module (camera and LED) isn’t detected). I can reinstall the old FP3 module and it does work. I’ve done this twice now, and so am currently concluding I was sent a defective FP3+ Camera Module. (I will be contacting Fairphone Support about this.)
Not sure if this rambling helps anyone. My own top advice: Proper tools used gently on a level workspace!
cheers,
-blf-
EDIT 1: Fix an offering to Tpyos, teh deity of typos.
EDIT 2: Sorry, forgot to mention: 10th, Update to Android 10 (mandatory!).
EDIT 3: Clarify which five screws (when testing (8th)).
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Welcome to our community! 
Is your FP3 running Android 10? That is necessary for the new modules to work.
Yes, I forgot to mention (I’ve edited my original comment), I am running Android 10.
Having said that, I would have thought the *#*#66#*#* diagnostics, even on Android 9, would at least detect the new FP3+ Camera Module, even if it couldn’t be “used” in any sense (excepting, perhaps, the flash LED might be usable (as a Torch/Flashlight), however it also isn’t working).
Thanks & cheers,
-blf-
EDIT: Clarify what I mean about the flash LED in the Camera Module.
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Hello!
Good to read that others also had problems (and solved them) with the solving/connecting.
My new camera module takes finally pictures/videos, but it always clicks when opening the camera app. - Or even after opening it. It sounds mechanical - but it’s not. Surely not. I opened it again and checked. Could it be that it has to do with focusing? Does anyone has/had the same issue or an idea what else I could try?
Have FF3 with Android 10.
After changing the camera module the time had reset. Even if I do not see here a connection, but for the sake of completeness, hereby mentioned.
Since the tinkering had taken longer and the year is about to end, I already take the opportunity to cheerfully wish a Happy New Year!
I have absolutely no idea and would contactsupport in any case. That doesn’t seem normal and may be a factory defect with the module.
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OK, I will do that. Thank you for the quick reply!
Stay healthy!
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