Whats the best OS? Ubuntu or FP Open? And if I will install one of these. How could comeback to install Android in a easy way? Thanks
Depends on what you expect from an OS.
FP Open is Android. Switching back to FP OS is as simple as switching to FP Open. For Ubuntu I have no experience, but it’s probably pretty much the same.
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And the apps available for it 
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I want a smartphone without Gapps and Google Services. I used to use web browser, gps, camera, music,calls and message. If FP Open OS works fine (i saw Ubuntu have some problems now) is ok for me. I just want a funcional smartphone without Google.
My important apps are Firefox, Signal Messenger, any app to use GPS and other to write notes and, Orfox + Orbot,
Sounds like all alternative OSes are a viable option for you.
If you are used to Android then Open OS will probably be better than Ubuntu for you.
I’d say Lineage OS is even better. I use it for a long while now and am very happy with it. It’s not hard to flash and it’s already on Android 8.
Also there is a fork with F-Droid and microg preinstalled.
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