First of all, for those having tinkered, how easy is it to remove the screws the first time that you open the Fairphone up ?
The threads on Philips screws tend to wear out after some use, and I don’t see an option to replace any lost screws on Fairphone’s website. Are there the schematics to replace the screws, should I opt for the more hardy Torx variety ?
Well I’ve worked on radio electronics for 60 years and have never had a screw thread wear out.
What happens more often is that the head engagement may burr if the driver slips due to low pressure or a seized thread.
There are posts about getting more screws if you search
Big fan of Torx myself, but honestly I wouldn’t bother replacing the screws.
I just opened my FP4 for the first time (to answer your other question) and I didn’t have any problems whatsoever, screw quality seems great and my PH#00 screw driver fit perfectly.
Just make sure to get a high quality screw driver, I’m very happy with both Wiha and Wera drivers and the iFixit ones are generally very good too.
And get a spudger or guitar pick to remove those little connectors, those worry me way more than the screws.
Here’s some more information regarding screws used by Fairphone:
This makes no sense, the drive of the screw has nothing to do with the strength.
And if you were to take 10.9 or 12.9 hardness, you’re more likely to break the threads from the phone, which will be more expensive than the “reasonable tool” already mentioned.
PS: Do you check every day whether everything is still there in the phone?
Not sure about that, one should always be careful not to tighten the screws too loosely or too strong. Ideally use a torque measuring or limiting screwdriver, but of course that’s too expensive for occasional users. Apart from the PH drive slots, the blue screw securing glue is another thing that could wear out after several disassemblies.
So depending on how often I will have to exchange modules, or remove them for cleaning, I might actually consider replacing the screws and then go for Torx drive (or at least PZ drive), and apply new screw securing glue as well. But for the non-technical user, all this is certainly too much hassle.
Not sure why PH is still so commonplace, can only be cost reasons, and why not go for the cheapest solution if it works for initial assembly. Ironically, PH drive was invented as a simple torque limiting mechanism, so the slipping of the screwdriver is actually intentional though not really sustainable.
Come to think of it: It would be feasible to equip FP angels with replacement (torx?) screws, securing glue, torque-limiting screwdrivers and other equipment and material. Such a kit wouldn’t be so expensive, and Fairphone would do a great service to everyone if at least in major cities a few angels would have such equipment… let me dream
Just take a ziplock bag
Do you disassemble the whole engine from the car or do you change the oil?
And if (I think) my FP is dirty “inside”, then I open the back, take out the battery and knock it 3 times on the table,… done and “clean”
The Einhell BT-PP 160 has a max. torque of 0.2 Nm. It can be grabbed for €19,99 here (DE, hagebau). With spares on offer, e.g. here (apparently no English version), that is a ‘buy once use a long time’ investment.
Is 0.2 Nm OK for the FPs? What is their tolerable torque range?
The recommended torque depends on the screw material and it’s strength class (Festigkeitsklasse). For M1.6, it ranges from 0.05 Nm to 0.29 Nm. For M1.4 it will be even lower, probably ranging from 0.035 Nm to 0.18 Nm. So I’m afraid that using a 0.2 Nm screwdriver will kill these screws, for any material…
Of course, the thread material in the phone parts is also important, and determines which screw material and strength class should be used. I hope that the FP support will tell you this info as well.