Mister Leo, you are just incredibly awesome, I hipe you know that!
My deepest respect!
Sign me up too!
Mister Leo, you are just incredibly awesome, I hipe you know that!
Hello dear community,
Now that the bottom module is near perfection, I still need a case that is ready for the market.
Even though the flex case was pretty nice and had some good bumper abilities, it was unable to support the USB-C port, leading to higher than usual wear on the port. I’ve tried many case designs, some designed by myself, but they all didn’t feel perfect enough. Fairphone released the 3d-model for the back of the slim case, but it’s for SLA, not FDM, because it was very fine details. The amount of precion required is insane for FDM, especially for an ABS print, which always are a bit more inprecise and warp. I’ve tried it anyway and with these settings it works on my heavily modified Ender 3 Pro
I use a very high quality 0.2mm nozzle made out of stainless steel.
I use a lot of support to keep the dimensions accurate
I’ve experimentally figgured out the shrinkage of the ABS and I compensate for it, so that the final part is perfect in all dimensions (for those that want to print themselfes, shrinkage is 0.55%
I use a low shrinkage ASB called NiceABS (https://www.3djake.de/3djake/niceabs-dunkelgrau)
I use a very fine layer hight of 0.08mm, which is big for SLA, but very fine for FDM
Sorry, I can’t upload the design files, not even as a zip, but I’ll send them per email, if you’re interested
I’m really excited to get one of the new modules
Is it possible to use a normal slim cover and carve out the hole for the micro-USB port a little so it’s large enough for USB-C?
It works, this is the way I did it with the very first generation, but the port whobles and wears out way quicker because it is unable to support the USB-C port. Also dust might get into your device.
I am testing this new case and module on my personal phone before giving it to anyone, I learn from the past, where I had a 50% return rate, but it looks promising. If I’m certain that it is reliable, I’ll send some to interested users for testing under the condition that they give me some feedback about the case and the module.
If the files aren’t simply too big, you can try to manually change the suffix to an accepted suffix (.jpg or the like), upload it and then edit the file name in your posting’s text back to what it is supposed to be (and/or tell folks to do the same to the file they download from here again).
Tried it, it says it can’t determine the size of the “image”
This custom case looks awesome!
Is it compatible with the “first-generation USB-C module” (the one I got from you) or only with the last optimized one?
Edit: I’m interrested with the files
It should be compatible with the old one. I can send you the file per email. Be aware that a 0.2mm nozzle is absolutely necessary for this
Hey, this is a pretty amazing project. Thanks for putting in the work; as a repeat customer of bottom modules (I’ve just gone through number 2, I think) this definitely is of great interest to me.
As for the troubles getting a well-fitting and sturdy cover made; have you considered taking this project to something like CrowdSupply to do crowdfunding for an injection molded version? I know a project on there (the µArt) managed to have an injection molded case; the creator used tec4data to get the molding done, an Austrian company. Depending on how much the tooling cost is, it may be in reach for this project if enough Fairphone 2 owners are interested.
An alternative may be one of the many now available affordable SLA printers on the market, for which I think a small crowdfunding campaign could also help you cover the costs of acquiring it.
Regarding the PCB, are you using gold-plated contacts? I’m asking as yours look a little duller in the photos compared to the original module’s contact plate.
Thanks for your interest in my project.
Injection moulding cost a lot. Like a lot. A few K are to be expected and as long as the demand can be counted with fingers, it’s probabyly not worth it. I don’t like SLA for those projects, as it is:
Very fragile and not as tough as FDM
Impossible to recycle, as resin can’t be recycled
A lot more expensive, both resin and printer
Way harder to handle as the fumes are even worse than the ABS I use and the resin must be handled with care as it can sensitise your skin
Yes I do have gold plated contact, ENIG to be preciseand it looks quite a bit more shiny in person
Interesting, I didn’t know of these downsides of SLA, that’s good to know.
I have a Prusa i3 MK3 and a roll of PETG laying about that I can experiment with. PETG being PET is very recyclable and also sturdy with little warping, but I suspect it’ll have difficulties with detail. I currently am a bit swamped with stuff so my experiments will have to wait a few weeks, but I can also order some of Prusa’s high precision ASA (an ABS variant) and PETG filament to see how they come out (after I put my printer on a less wobbly table, too).
Another avenue to explore is if there is a way to add the necessary mechanical support and dust sealing to the already existing back covers with some glue-on bits and a fine file or power tool.
For brass inserts, I’ve found that Adafruit sells them in bags of 50 and also offer a tool for heat-setting them in, it’s worth checking if these are available from a European reseller near you. At the end of the day they are probably just resold Chinese hardware too, but at least there’s some accountability if they never turn up.
I can send you the files by email if you’re interested. I reccomend ABS, but PETG migh work too. I print on an ender 3 pro that has been heavily modified. I don’t know what you mean by
For the brass inserts, I already have them and the new sold modules already have them installed. Adafruit only has the standard M3 inserts, but I need M1.4 inserts.
I am very interested in the bottom module… are you still selling them? How can I get one?
Are there any news about the module? Have you been able to perfect it?
(And when can I get one? )
Hi Leo. I’m interested in this Modules. I would by 2.
Hey quick headsup on the recycling point, as I used to think the same. PETE is recyclable, but sadly PETG is not, according to this article:
“Even though PETG and PETE are chemically very similar, PETG is also excluded from being recycled by most programs. In fact, the chemical similarity of PETG to other types of PET plastic, combined with its low melting point, makes PETG a pesky contaminant during the recycling of PETE. That’s because it’s difficult to differentiate from PETE and dangerously reduces the temperature stability of the final PETE material if it’s mixed in.”
Maybe some day we’ll get large-scale PETg recycling working, but until then don’t put it in municipal recycling
Hey, your case is pretty darn impressive for an Ender 3, and agreed FDM has limitations but don’t give up hope on FDM if you are still working on this awesome project! Here’s a case I managed to print in Onyx Black (nylon + chopped carbon fibre) on a Markforged printer, then wet sanding. The material is nice (maybe not environmentally) because it is strong, flexible and gives high dimensional fidelity.
I could have done more with the wet sanding but it was my first time sanding 3D printed ebjects. Online 3D print shops might be able to print in Onyx black, or similar, if you don’t have a printer that can print to specs required. Alternatively maybe use a dremel to shape it. A few issues - I wasn’t clever as you in printing separate buttons, so there is a big blob of glue holding the volume buttons on. Second, and more important, I couldn’t get the rim around the screen so when I dropped it, the screen felt the full impact and smashed (not shown).
Also, do you have any bottom board PCBs handy?
Are there any news about the module? How could I buy one???
Cheers and thanks a lot.
i’m also very interested in your buttom module. First: I’m so impressed of what you have done! Great!
Is it possible to get one of your (the last version) bottom modules? Just the Module, i would like to print the case by my self.