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New Fairphone 2 Bottom Module with an appropriate case

Can you print your own case or do you also need a case?

I would also need a case, if possible.

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I could print one out of ABS or I could send you one of the old TPU cases, which do you prefer, I could send the TPU case immediately but would have to print the ABS case

I don’t really understand the difference. :smiley: So, as long as they work, it does not matter to me. So whichever is easier to you.

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The TPU cases are big and bulky and hard to get on and off but offer some degree of fall protection and the ABS cases are like the original slim cases only that they have a cutout for a USB-C port.
Are you aware that you have to take the speaker and vibration motor out of the old module?

Right. In that case, I think I’ll try to fix the module by myself, first, if I’d have to open it up anyway. With the few tricks I found here. If that wont work out, I’ll get back to you. Ok?

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That’s fine, try all the common tricks first, maybe reflow the microphone or lay a jumper wire, not a nice solution but it should work in case all of the common tricks fail

Hi Leo @Leo_TheCrafter
When you have head space I would love some info.

I’m wondering about buying a 3D printer, inspired by your work. I have no immediate use but would love to experiment on simple things like case and back cover for the FP3.

So would you be so kind as to tell me

Ok I have a million questions so I’d better get back to trawling the web

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I have an Ender 3 Pro that has been heavily modified: microswiss hotend, better extruder, better mainboard with TMC drivers, PEI coated Aluminum build surface, LED lighting, better fan. I really like this, but it wasn’t cheap, probably still under 500€, and a lot of work. I would avoid Prusa printers at all cost, they are simple and cheap printers that cost around twice what they are worth because they have established a brand. They are not bad in any kind of way, just not worth the cost. The printers by creality are decent, I would probably buy something like the Ender 5 right now, but there are a lot of clones available that are sometimes even better. I reccomend checking out makers muse, he has a lot of great reviews on his channel.

If you wanna build cases around commercial products, you’ll have to meassure them quite precisely. I reccomend getting good digital calipers, I have mitutoyo calipers, however they are very expensive and you’ll get away with much cheaper ones if you want, just search ebay. If you are modifying open source projects, then it is a lot simpler, of course.
As you are just getting started, I reccomend printing parts from thingiverse and similar sites. That way you’ll get experience printing the parts and when you are getting decent quality parts, then you can look into designing something yourself, maybe a cable clip, a custom holder for when you are using your phone in the car (or bicycle).

I really reccomend starting with PLA as it is so simple to print and also very safe. When you want something more durable then you can look into ABS. TPU is also a very nice material, however it is difficult to print with bowden printers. There are also other, more specialized materials like PMMA, PVC, PC, PA, POM but I would stay away from them until you have the knowledge on how to print them and have an application that really requires thse exotic materials.
Be aware that most materials, with PLA beeing a bit of an exception, release toxic fumes, many print in their office or living room, I highly discourage this. Especially ABS, PMMA and PVC release fumes that can be immediately dangerous (headache, nausea, watery eyes) or have long term effects (cancer, infertility, lung deseases) or possibly unknown effects (plastic particles so small they absorb into your bloodstream). I reccomend printing in your basement, a garage or a workshop and only entering the room for starting and quickly checking on your prints. Don’t be scared to print, I probably made it sound too dramatic, but inhaling the fumes all day is probably not a wise idea.

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Thanks Have you any experience with nylon and wood/carbon they sound more to my liking.

Will look at the printers you mentioned

Thanks again

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No, wood is not that useful to me, it is really more for the aesthetic, and carbon is quite dangerous (will embedd itself into your fingertips, if you sand it it gives you lung cancer) and only gives you support in XY direction, not Z.
Nylon is very nice, I haven’t used it, but it is not a beginner material, you need a dry box, it is somewhat flexible, quite hot temperatures etc. If you want to try it, go ahead, for certain applications it is the only material durable enough and it is also semi flexible making snap fit and compliant mechanisms easily possible, but it is quite expensive.

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Here’s a link to a new thread regarding the next batch of bottom modules

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You might want to consider giving (in your pre-order topic) at least a vague estimate of how much a module and how much a case might cost (before shipping).

And I’d make sure to include the magic words USB-C over there, too :angel:

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Thanks, I somewhat missed it, I have included it in the post

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@Leo_TheCrafter, can you comment on the level of support of this new hardware in stock FPOS for the FP2? What about other typical OSes like FP Open, /e/, Lineage? Would you expect the module to be supported out of the box?

Ingolf

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The module has nothing to do with software, the USB-C port is electrically USB2, however the rest behaves exactly the same as the original module

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Thank you very much for the clarification.

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I’m potentially interested in this module, but I would like to know what manipulations are needed to install it (I’ve never tweaked my FP2…). Also, do you have pictures of the case? The one I found are from October 2019.

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The main module needs no modifications, but you’ll have to remove the speaker and vibration motor from the old module and move them over to the new one, you’ll also need a new case or carve the old one out with a knife.

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A post was merged into an existing topic: FP2 new USB-C bottom module new batch